· 7 min read · by Salimar Boat Tour
Villa d'Este in Cernobbio: five centuries seen from the lake
If you pass Cernobbio by boat you recognise it before you know its name: a long pale facade on the water, a park climbing behind it and, in summer, a swimming pool floating on the lake itself. This is Villa d'Este, and its story begins almost six hundred years ago with a convent.
The 30-second answer
| Detail | |
|---|---|
| Where | Cernobbio, western shore, about 5 km from Como |
| Built | between 1565 and 1570 for Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio |
| Original name | Villa del Garovo, after the stream crossing the park |
| Park | 10 hectares, a National Monument since 1913 |
| Today | a luxury hotel since 1873: access for guests only |
| From the lake | fully visible, with the 1966 floating pool |
From convent to cardinal's villa
In 1442 the Bishop of Como, Gerardo Landriani, founded a convent at the mouth of the Garovo stream. A century later it was demolished by Tolomeo Gallio, a cardinal born in Cernobbio itself, who between 1565 and 1570 had his summer residence built on the site. The design is traditionally credited to Pellegrino Pellegrini, known as Tibaldi, although more recent research points to Giovan Antonio Piotti, called il Vacallo.
The house took its name from the stream and for centuries was known as Villa del Garovo. While the cardinal lived it drew politicians, writers and churchmen, and its fame travelled far: in 1615 the Sultan of Morocco came to see it in person. After Gallio's death his heirs let it fall into disrepair.
The dancer, the general and the princess
In 1784 the estate passed to the Calderara family of Milan. Marquis Bartolomeo married Vittoria Peluso, a Scala dancer nicknamed la pelusina, and together they rebuilt the Italian garden: this is when the Viale d'Ercole appeared, a double chain of stone basins fed by the Garovo, climbing from the baroque nymphaeum to the statue of Hercules and Lichas between magnolias and cypresses.
Widowed in 1806, Donna Vittoria married General Domenico Pino and had a theatrical mock fortress built in the park, still there today. In 1815 she sold the estate to Caroline of Brunswick, Princess of Wales and estranged wife of the future George IV. It was Caroline who renamed it Villa d'Este and added the English-garden touches: winding paths, small bridges and the neoclassical Tempietto di Telemaco.
The detail almost nobody mentions
The 1815 deed of sale was handled by Alessandro Volta, acting as Donna Vittoria's attorney. The seller insisted the contract state that she was parting with the villa only to please the princess, given how persistently she had asked.
From 1873: the hotel
In 1873 a group of businessmen together with the mayor of Milan, Giulio Bellinzaghi, formed the Villa d'Este company and turned the residence into a luxury hotel. In 1913 house and park were declared a National Monument. In 1966 came the floating swimming pool resting on the water, the first of its kind on the lake and imitated ever since. Since 1975 the villa has hosted the Ambrosetti Forum each September, and since 1928 the Concorso d'Eleganza for vintage cars.
What you see from the water
From a boat you get what the gate hides: the whole facade, the terraced park climbing behind it, dark cypresses against pale plaster and, at water level, the floating pool with its jetty. It is the view these houses were built for — the real entrance, once, was from the lake.
| From the lake | From the road |
|---|---|
| The full facade and terraced park | Only the gate and the boundary wall |
| The floating pool | Not visible |
| How the villa meets the water | No perspective at all |
| The neighbouring villas in sequence | One at a time, in traffic |
Can you visit it?
Villa d'Este is a working hotel and is not open as a museum: park and salons are for guests and for those with a restaurant or bar reservation. Which is why the easiest way to see it remains from the water, where nobody asks anything and the view is complete.
Our boat tours from Como pass Cernobbio on the one-hour trip around the first basin: Villa Olmo, Villa Geno and the Cernobbio shore with Villa d'Este and Villa Erba. The skipper slows down and tells the story, and the photos come without glass or crowds.
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Can you visit Villa d'Este? Not as a monument: it is a five-star hotel and access is for guests. From the lake you see all of it, with no restrictions.
Where exactly is it? In Cernobbio, Via Regina 40, on the western shore, about five kilometres north of Como.
Why is it called Villa d'Este if Cardinal Gallio built it? The name arrived only in 1815 with Caroline of Brunswick. Before that it was Villa del Garovo, after the stream in the park.
What is the pool floating on the lake? The hotel pool, built in 1966 on a structure resting on the water: the first of its kind on Lake Como.
Better seen from land or from the water? From the water, without question: from the road you only see the gate and the wall.
Sources: Wikipedia · Lombardia Beni Culturali · Italian Parks and Gardens Association · Villa d'Este official site. Checked on 27 August 2026.
The best way to see the villas is from a boat: we leave from the pier in viale Geno, 75 metres from the bus stop. Here are the tours you can book right now.
